New- and always bold- designs were built upon the traditional Chypre chassis of bergamot, a classic floral meritage, and resinous or animalic moss. In the early part of that decade, perfume houses took the previously strict parameters of the Chypre family and blew them up. GlitteralexglitteralexColonyThe 1980s Chypre fragrances are by far my favorites. A soft but rich chypre exuding elegance and substance. This creation, great for cooler spring or autumn days, combines some creativity, high-quality ingredients and superb blending with a performance that truly deserves the 'perfum' epithet. I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a truly splendid fifteen hours of longevity on my skin. The base has list the aldehydes and feshness, and the floral side gives way to a more mossy, woodsy and ambery impression. It becomes gradually sweeter, initially courtsy of a juicy ylang-ylang, and later due to a tonka undertone this sweetness is beautifully balanced and never cloying or intrusive. Towards to end of the top notes, a jasmine note creeps in, and then a herbal and woodsy light incense develops, which morphs into a myrrh impression that never dominates the whole mix this myrrh underlines the mix of the other components, providing added depth and richness. The rose provides a scaffolding for the other notes it is pleasant and not too deep, whilst the hyacinth really gives this opening a beautiful floral twist and is executed truly masterfully. Although he remains a driving creative force behind the brand, she is now widely regarded as the “chief nose”.The opening is quite unique, with the floral dyad of rose and hyacinth is given a darker and deeper character by a generous lashing with galbanum concurrently it is given a fresher and gently sparkling undertone courtesy of aldehydes. In 2013, Ellena invited perfumer Christine Nagel to join him at the helm of Perfumes Hermès. The wager paid off - four years after Ellena’s appointment, perfume sales at Hermès had supposedly tripled, and his 2006 creation Terre d’Hermès remained on the French best-sellers list for nearly five years. The aim of this bold decision was to not only create a best-seller, but to give the collection the same sense of coherence and craftsmanship for which the fashion and accessory side of the business was known. Despite boasting an enviable collection of iconic scents, perfume sales lagged behind those of other designer houses. At the time, only Chanel employed an in-house perfumer, Jacques Polge. Véronique Gautier, then director of Parfums Hermès, took the unusual step of hiring Jean-Claude Ellena as the firm’s in-house perfumer in 2004. The launch firmly established the company as an icon in the designer fragrance industry over the next forty years it worked closely with some of the biggest names in the business, including Maurice Roucel, Fabrice Pellegrin, Olivia Giacobetti, Ralf Schwieger and Françoise Caron to create timeless fragrances that still rank among perfume hall best-sellers of today. In 1961 Hermès chose Guy Robert to create its first feminine fragrance, Calèche. Though still not as popular or well-known as the best-selling Eau des Merveilles or Terre d’Hermès, the fragrance enjoys something of a cult status among connoisseurs of the brand. Eau d’Hermès dropped off the radar after the 1950’s until Hermès began re-marketing it in 1993. The fragrance’s leather notes were inspired by the inside of an Hermès handbag and is still considered shocking by some today due to his inclusion of pungent animalic notes and sweaty cumin. Its creator, Edmond Roudnitska, already had two iconic fragrances - Christian Dior’s Diorama and Rochas Femme - under his belt by the time he began working on it. In 1880, the firm moved to its now iconic address, 24 Rue Faubourg, where it expanded its offer to saddlery and began selling to the public.ĭuring the 1920’s and 1930’s, Émile-Maurice Hermès (son of Thierry) once again expanded the brand’s offering to include accessories and clothing - including scarves and what came to be known as the Kelly bag, which remain two of their most iconic and coveted items to this date.Įau d’Hermès, the house’s first perfume, debuted in 1951 with an initial production of only 1500 bottles. Its first incarnation was a workshop in the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris, producing bespoke harnesses and bridles for carriages of European nobleman.
Hermès is a French luxury goods manufacturer founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermès.
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